Follow the below steps to help you measure for your own custom fit liner.
Your liner is completely custom made. It is cut to exactly fit your pool and as such, all dimensions must be very accurate. In order to take proper measurements, the pool must be completely drained. Dimensions are to be take to the nearest ¼". Some dimensions are not really necessary but serve as a check on the accuracy of other supplied dimensions or the actual shape of the pool. Please provide all the dimensions on the form which relate to your specific pool. If you have any questions, please call or email.
Most pools should have cushion foam behind the liner on the walls. Depending on how it was hung, the foam may fall down when the pool is drained. If that is the case, I would plan on replacing the foam later. In addition, all gaskets should be replaced as well as all plastic face plates. We can provide face plates if necessary. Alternatively, it might be easier to bring your face plates and gaskets to a local pool company where they can match them up for you. When dimensions are required inside the pool, cut the liner as necessary to take the measurements such that the tape measure is up against the wall. Do not remove the liner until you are close to installing the new liner. That way, most of the pool bottom (if it is sand) will stay in place and keep the trowel work to a minimum.
The best way to ship your liner is via the airlines. It usually costs less to ship, arrives quicker and usually with less wear and tear on the liner box. We use United, Delta and America West airlines. We generally ship the liner freight collect, and you would pick it up at a nearby airport. Below your name and address, indicate the shipping method you prefer. Provide the nearest airport / city which has one of the above carriers if you prefer that method.
Select your wall and floor patterns and gauge (20 or 30 mil). Generally, I recommend the 20 mil. A 30 mil liner will last longer but will fade the same as a 20 mil. However, if you have a straight sloping bottom, I would recommend a 30 mil wall with a 20 mil floor. This is due to the extra pull on the liner at the back wall. In any case, the choice is yours.
Select your wall and floor patterns and gauge (20 or 30 mil). Generally, I recommend the 20 mil. A 30 mil liner will last longer but will fade the same as a 20 mil. However, if you have a straight sloping bottom, I would recommend a 30 mil wall with a 20 mil floor. This is due to the extra pull on the liner at the back wall. In any case, the choice is yours.
Please select your pool shape. Refer to the figures in the order form if necessary, such as for the Lazy L (Left or Right) selection. If you have a Freeform or Kidney pool, please call or email for additional info.
Indicate if the liner is held into a track with a bead. Unless it is an aboveground pool, it should have a bead. If your in ground pool does not have track - let us know. We can provide that too.
Indicate the dimension of your appropriate pool corners type. If the corner is a radius corner, the radius dimension is taken from where the corner would be if it were a square corner (see diagram), to where the curve just starts. Most radius are typically 5-7".
Fill in the dimensions for your particular pool. Note that measurements are taken from track to track, not from the coping. In taking the CLW measurement, the tape measure must follow the contour of the bottom, usually just next to the drain. The CLL measurement is taken in the same way as CLW, only lengthwise, right up the middle of the pool. If you have stairs at the back wall of the shallow end, you can’t take the CLL measurement as shown. Instead, take the CLL measurement only to the edge of where the stairs intersects the pool bottom. Indicate in the "Notes" section where the CLL measurement was taken.
The Side Slope "J" and "L" measurements can be taken by holding the tape measure horizontally up against each side wall. Then drop a plum bob to where the slope intersects the flat bottom. Note that if you are standing in the deep looking at the shallow, J is on the left.
Note that dimensions E, F, G & H are taken linearly. In other words, if you have a hopper style pool, dimensions E + F + G + H should equal "B", the length of the pool. The best way to take these measurements is as follows: Take the "A", "C" and "D" measurements from inside the pool. The "D" measurement is taken by holding the tape measure horizontally up against the back wall. Then drop a plum bob to where the slope intersects the flat bottom. The "F" measurement can then be calculated by subtracting E+G+H from the total length "B".
If for some reason your pool does not follow any of these outlines, please supply your own drawing.
Please provide any additional instructions, comments, etc. If you have a rectangle pool without steps, you may submit the order form now.
Additional measurements are required as shown for your particular shape pool. Note that an Oval pool requires a perimeter measurement "P" not shown. This measurement can be taken on top of the coping assuming that the tape measure is directly under where the track is. If you do not have vinyl steps, you may submit the form now.
If the pool has steps which are made of vinyl, you need to fill out this portion of the form. In addition, you must provide an additional drawing showing the exact placement of the steps. If your pool has plastic (or fiberglass) stairs, you do NOT need to fill out this section. The stair will be cut out later after the liner is set and there is some water in the pool.
Some steps will have rods which run on the bottom corner of each step tread to help hold the liner in place without water. The only reason to re-use the rods would be if you live in a climate where you need to drain the water below a step(s) for winter. Otherwise, they are just not needed. Most of the time, steel rods were used. They were threaded into nuts located on either side of the step which you cannot now get to. And they are probably rusted in place. If that is the case, cut them out with a grinder or torch. Fill any holes that were put into the wall as a result of removing the rods. If you want to replace the steel (of fiberglass) rods, you can buy replacement rods and retainer clips which you screw down into the corner of each step. If you want to use rods, select yes. This will add extra liner material behind each step to receive the rods.
If you have rectangular steps, indicate the Step Width. If not, leave this dimension blank. Provide the dimension of your particular style of corners used on the coping in the stair area. If the corner is a radius corner, the radius dimension is taken from where the corner would be if it were a square corner (see diagram), to where the curve just starts. Most radius are typically 5-7".
Provide each riser and tread dimension as pictured. for either the rectangle or corner step area. Note that R1 is measured to the bottom lip of liner track. Make sure that R1+R2+R3+R4 are equal to wall height "W".
Many times, the bottom tread is flush with the pool wall. If this is the case, select "None" for the setback dimension. However, sometimes the bottom tread is set back from and perpendicular to the wall. Other times, the setback occurs at a 45 degree angle. If this is the case, record your S dimension for either the 90 or 45 degree setback.
Finally, you must provide an additional drawing showing the exact placement of the steps.
After we receive and review the order form, we will contact you. Payment in full is due at time of order, and can be made via Master Card, Visa or check. Orders made via Master Card or Visa are ordered the next business day.
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